Managing the Waves and Leaks in Time

When I was fourteen years old, I went to California with a group of kids my age.

We went to Santa Monica Beach to see the ocean. None of us had been there before so this was a real treat for us.

When we got there, we decided to try bodysurfing. We saw others doing it and it looked fun and much less difficult than regular surfing. Soon we learned how it was done and found ourselves out in the water preparing for the waves to come our way.

When a large wave approached, I started swimming as hard as I could, hoping to time it perfectly. I found myself riding the wave in toward the shore.

Suddenly, the wave pulled me down, headfirst into the sand under the water. (more…)